Thursday is ferry day, leaving continental Europe behind and heading for Portsmouth, but first a quick visit to the Tour Solidor, the Solidor Tower another ancient battlement of Saint Malo, a two minute drive from our apartment. Then on to the “Bretague” the Brittainy Ferries boat for our journey to Portsmouth, cabin 8317 with a view to the bow, and our own toilet…..! A very smooth voyage up the west coast of France past the Channel Islands and into the English Channel and back to driving on the left .
Tour Solidor
Solidor area of Saint Malo
Saint Malo
Cabin 8317
View from the Port Hole
One of the Forts at high tide, no walking across now
Last time we went to Mount St Michel there was rain and no sun so we went back for sunny pictures. Walking along causeway to the town we saw a guy in a white shirt using a drone, that was until armed troops passing in a truck got out and spoke to him, he quickly put away the offending aerial photographic system. In the town we went and had a drink and some of the local speciality, crepes. Mount St Michel still busy and buzzy with plenty of tourists even in October.
Then back to Saint Malo and a walk around the ramparts to see things we hadn’t seen before, including a salt water swimming pool. Interesting because tides here can range up to 40 feet and all the area between the inner islands and the town walls are covered with water, at low tide you can walk to the nearby forts but not later.
Saint Malo: One of the forts overlooking the city, thick concrete blockhouses and gun emplacements. The Germans here were under a tough bombardment from the Americans as can be seen from damage to one of the pill boxes, must have been tough inside, several holes and one shell stuck in the metal. The Americans succeeded in taking the fort and set up their own artillery there. Saint Malo was virtually undamaged until August 1944 apart from the Cathedral spire that was shelled by a German minesweeper and fell into roof, the German military commander Colonel von Auloch tore a strip off the local naval captain saying how did expect the local people to respect the German forces. The Americans surrounded the city and were anxious to capture the harbour, however their military “intelligence” estimated that the number of Germans inside the walled city was around 10,000 , two local people escaped through the city walls and made contact with the Americans they told them that there was only two AA batteries manned by 100 soldiers. Of course the Americans believed their own intelligence and decided to bombard the city into submission which they promptly did beginning with a incendiary bombing run which set the place on fire. Two thirds of the houses in the city were destroyed mostly medieval and from the 17th century. Typical yanks, forget the historical significance and destroy it with bad intelligence. Sounds familiar……… After 14 days the German commander Colonel von Auloch finally surrendered and emerged from his underground bunker to a devastated town, after the war he was so appalled at the damage he spent time and money on restoring the town and became best friends with the mayor. The town was completely rebuilt in the style that had been destroyed.
A day of sight seeing from Saint Malo, we drove west and ended up at Saint Cast Le Guido where the beach is known as “The Golden Beach” and it truly was in colour and the fact that there was nobody there. Up on the headland were some gun emplacements, probably German from WWII, which had a sweeping vista over several bays and reaching to Saint Malo. A little further west was Fort La Latte, a castle that was started in the 13th century and sits perched atop of another headland. The views again were spectacular and from the very top of the keep you can see for miles, although it was not used defensively during the war the chapel was shelled and destroyed.
In a trip of beautiful places Bordeaux ranks up there, some far sighted city fathers in the 1700’s built many buildings with wide avenues and trees to create an elegant place to live. As I said on facebook I’d live there…..! In the dark days of the occupation in WWII an Italian submarine flotilla was based here until their change of sides and the German U-Boats took over. The base is still there and even the numbers above each pen are still visible, one of those erie places when you think of the history. On the river they have a huge opening bridge, tall enough to allow cruise ships to dock and disgorge hundreds of tourist ! but of course they are only there during the day and miss the buzzy nightime atmosphere. There are several other bridges including the Peter Bridge ! The collection of buildings known as the Bourse has a reflective fountain in front and gives a brilliant night time view.
Bordeaux Cathedral
Day view of the Bourse
Opening Bridge
Many tourists
Submarine Pens
Even the numbers are still there -Twelve pens in all.
On the way to Bordeaux our next port of call we make a stop in the town of Bezier, another surprise on our trip, not a huge amounts of touristy things but enough to make the stop enjoyable, a cathedral that stands above the city, and close by, the Canal Midi with nine locks.
I apologise for the lateness of these posts but due to poor internet and a technical problem with the laptop but now all is sorted (:-)
A day of rest in Sete, first a visit to the local markets which were rather large and buzzing and then back to the apartment and the swimming pool. The weather has been kind and the temperature warm and sunny. After the pool we walked to the seafront for a meal, I had curried moules and frites and I have to say very nice they were too!
in light of our change of plan to stay in Avignon we were able to spend time in Nimes and look around the amphitheatre. So Roman ruins two days in a row, Orange though had a theatre for stage productions usually either a comedy or a tragedy depending on the trend at the time. Nimes though has an amphitheatre, here was the real deal, combat to the death, public executions and lots of blood, and in more recent times bullfighting. We learnt today that the term “arena” comes from the Latin for sand, this was spread in the combat zone to soak up the blood and gore and was changed often during a days session. As is the case for Orange, Nimes claim theirs is the most complete structure for an amphitheatre in the world and indeed there is a lot of original stonework left and like Orange events are still staged there.
We were surprised by Nimes it is a very pleasant city and is on our list for next time.
Now we are in Avignon there are a few places we haven’t seen in our last two trips here. Orange, an important Roman town built by remnants of legions led by Julius Caesar, its main attribute is the theatre which is one of the most complete in the western Roman provences. It’s not an amphitheater as is Arles or Verona it is a theatre in the normal sense as we know it. Again it is still in use as is Verona. An impressive place which can hold 9,000 people, lots of steps though. Then on to Ile De La Sorgue, a pretty town in parts with it’s river a main attraction. Then homeward bound with a cooked chook for dinner….!
Sunday brought a change of plan, we were leaving for Aix-en-Provence but choose to go back to Avignon, but first a three kilometre trip down a narrow road to Portofino. Weather wasn’t good however as we got there early the were very few tourists about. The first thing you see though in the harbour was a huge yacht, the Lady Kathryn V, yours for a knock down price of $US450,000 per week for six bedrooms and fifteen staff. We walked around took a few photographs, looked at the pictures of the rich and famous who had been there and departed for Avignon with torrential rain for some of the way.
As they say all good things must come to an end and so it was Saturday and home time for the Twinns, but not before going to see the famous tower of Pisa before heading to the airport. For the Bates it was onward and upward to St Margherita Di Ligure on the Ligurian coast, it’s the next town to Portofina, a place for which we get asked for prints.
Friday, taking the Pis tour day. Weather sunny and warm and strolls around typical Tuscan towns. Pistoia was on Pennys list and Pescia was a memory of a town we saw last time in Tuscany as we left a motorway, unfortunately we must have misidentified as it was not the same place. The most interesting thing about Pistoia today was the local fire brigade putting up an Italian flag on the main tower, but after watching for half an hour we gave up as they were operating on local Italian time……
Thursday is a relaxing day moseying around the local area. I started with an early morning walk around Guzzano our local village as the sun rose, then it was down our twisty 3km road to the commune of Bagni Di Lucca. It is surprising that just within this small area how many possible canvases appeared…………
Ponte Della Maddalena medieval bridge over the Serchio river, you can read about it below, an amazing structure.
Onto Lucca an Italian town with complete medieval walls around which you can walk around, picnic on top or ride a bike. It began life as Roman and continued to be a successful place as a city state, but changing hands quite a few times being inffluenced by the larger entities of Milan, Florence etc
Among its notable citizens is the composer Pucini whose dependents still live in the city, the family home was still owned until 1974 by the Pucini family when it was given over to be a museum. Full of cafes, restaurants and shops it another typical Italian town full of narrow streets and motor scooters.
The oval heart was once a Roman amphitheatre
The Torre Guinigi tower from top of the Clock Tower
230 steps to the top
The Clock tower another 200+ steps, we did em both
View from the top of the Torre Guinigi with its trees
Relax day at the seaside resort of Viareggio, one of those beaches unfamiliar to Australians, most of it is concessions held by different companies and you pay to go on with access to umbrellas and sun loungers. A nice day, sun shining, sea warm and all very restful….
Saturday we motored down to Pisa Airport to pick up Sue and Alan and onto Bagni Di Luca in Tuscany. Sunday we toured our local area and the river then on to Barga a nearby village. This is one of those Italian villages on a hill with lots of walking, some interesting sights and people. Here are some pictures.
End of our stay in Stresa and a short run down to Milan, we drove down the lake road and stopped a couple of times on the way, saw some snow capped peaks in the distance and some other nice views. Our apartment in Milan was a revelation, free secured parking, breakfast included and free beer, wine and food, amazing………! Milan is a very cosmopolitan and fashionable city, the impression you get of the people who passed us in street was that they are very urbane and well dressed, women riding scooters and bikes dressed in suits and high heels. Middle aged men in snappy suits, well coiffured hair and no socks. We did the Leonardo Da Vinci exhibition to see the machines that have been recreated from the portfolios …. no pictures but I got one anyway. Went passed La Scala Opera and I’m sure it’s better looking on the inside than on the outside and the music is beautiful. The covered shopping centre from the 1860’s that is so upmarket even the police wear dress uniforms, all the top brands are there and twice as expensive. But you gotta love Milano.
Several kilometres further south from Stresa is the town of Arona, yet another picture perfect place on Lago Maggiore. Th first thing you notice though is across the lake is the Rocca_Borromea_di_Angera, a fortress from the 13th century guarding the city of Angera. It is now a toy museum, go figure!
Some walking, some drinking, some dolce another good day lakeside…….